First Update: Days 1-3
Arrival
The plane finally touches down at the Jomo Kenyatta International Airport. It’s been over 26 hours since I left home. The man sitting next to me has had too much wine and I’ve run out of John Wick movies to watch. I want to let out a cheer. Two hours later, after passing through customs and baggage claims, Trenton and I meet the man in charge of getting us to our new homes. James is a Johnnie alum who has been working with the Benedictine Volunteer Corps ever since they started sending Johnnies to Nairobi. As he is driving us to St. Benedict’s Church, he explains that police officers in Kenya do not worry about traffic violations. Speed limits, stop signs, and traffic lights are suggestions, nothing more. Pedestrians quickly dash across the street, fully aware that the car bearing down on them is not stopping. We arrive at the Church and are led to our rooms by Brother Cyprian, one of the monks who lives at St. Benedict’s. We learn that breakfast is at 7 the next morning and grudgingly set alarms for 6:45. I’m asleep in my bed moments later.
Day 1
I wake up seconds before my alarm. I feel surprisingly alert. I decide to take a quick shower and turn the nozzle. Nothing. I’ll shower later. I meet Trenton outside his room and walk to the cafeteria for breakfast. As we are eating omelets and toast, we can see monkeys playing on the roofs of the buildings we are living in. The Swahili church service starts at 9. We are the only mzungus (white people) there, and the parishioners are very surprised to see us. The choir is amazing and children form dance lines around the church during every song. I’m able to pick out about 10% of the words, just enough to know where we are in the service. After lunch, James picks us up and takes us into uptown Nairobi to sightsee. His sons, Amani (age 8) and Bakari (age 5) come along for the ride. We end up at a nyama choma (grilled meat) restaurant for supper. There are cow, goat, and pig carcasses hanging from the ceiling, with cooks slicing choice cuts of meat off them. Next to the carcasses is a charcoal grill filled with the different cuts, all cooked to varying degrees. We are able to order the pieces that we want along with sides of ugali (a staple food in Kenya, created by mixing corn meal and water), spinach, and french fries for James’ sons. Instead of using silverware, the ugali is formed and rolled in your hand so that you can pick up the meat and spinach with it. It’s a surprisingly effective system. After eating, we return to the monastery and go to bed.
Day 2
I’m up before my alarm again. Jetlag might be good for me. Morning prayer starts at 6:30, with breakfast right afterwards. We get a text from Lenore, asking us to come visit her for lunch. Lenore has been running a non-profit called Alfajiri for quite some time. She provides street children with food, access to art supplies, and a place where they can feel cared for. Public transport in Nairobi is not as easy to navigate as we think, and we get there 25 minutes late. We meet the rest of the staff over lunch and then play soccer with one of the kids. Getting home was easier than the way there… I can tell we’re starting to get the hang of things. Tonight is our first supper with the monks. There is not much talking. The meal is very good, and I decide to dish up seconds. As I’m starting plate number two, I can tell that something is wrong. Everyone else is done eating and waiting at their seat. Finally, in between bites, I ask if they’re waiting for me to finish. They inform me that they are. There is a short group prayer that they say after eating. I inhale the rest of my plate with all eyes on me, and inform my hosts, “Kesho, nitakula haraka sana!” (Tomorrow, I will eat very quickly!)
Day 3
My ‘broken’ shower was caused by user error. I know how to use it now. Trenton and I decide to get gym memberships at a nearby hotel. Once we’re back at St. Benedict’s, Brother Isaac introduces us to all the students and teachers at the parish primary school. Brother Isaac is in charge of the housing at St. Benedict’s and doubles as the school principal. The students are very well-behaved and very excited to see us. We let them know that we expect them to teach us just as much we teach them. Our Swahili is terrible. While going through some of the 5th grade English tests, Trenton and I simultaneously realize that we would be lucky to ace them… it seems our English needs some work too. At the very least, I am confident I will know the math coursework. We have been told that the rooms that we are staying in now are ours for good, so I was able to spend the rest of the day settling in. My circadian rhythm is back on track, and the only thing left to fear are the matatus (privately owned transportation vehicles, renowned for their lack of safety and standard routes).
Moving Forward
I plan on typing up updates about once a week. I have a new sim card in my phone so you can contact me using my US phone number over WhatsApp, or by using Instagram or Snapchat. Thank you for reading!